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Taxis

The immaculately clean taxis with white-gloved drivers who speak a polite but unintelligible regional dialect do not come cheap. The base fare in Kanazawa is about yen680 for the first 1.5 kilometers and an additional yen90 for each 0.5-kilometer. After 10pm, the fare increases by 20%. You can also order a taxi by telephone if you need one at a specific time, but they'll charge an extra yen100-120 for the fare.

If the red light on the dash (marked 空車) is lit, the cab is free and can be waved down. A green or yellow light on the dashboard indicates that the taxi is occupied. Many foreigners have been systematically ignored by taxi drivers in other cities, and at times this has happened in Kanazawa late at night, but the incidents are very rare.

At most sizeable train stations or Katamachi, there is a high demand for taxis, so it is best to wait in line at the taxi stands. To give the cab driver directions, since there are few street names, it is often a good idea to locate a well-known landmark in the vicinity that you wish to go so you can direct the taxi driver more easily. Finally, the left backseat door on all taxis opens automatically. Don't touch this door and always get in and out from the left side.

Local Buses

If you would like to find out the exact bus schedule for your area, please contact your office or school or a renewing JET living nearby you.

There are two main companies in Ishikawa which provide local bus services. Hokuriku Tetsudo (or Hokutetsu - the light red and beige buses) and its affiliates cover a large chunk of the prefecture, while Japan Rail (the blue and white buses) runs services in parts of Kanazawa and Noto Peninsula.

Local Buses

On most local buses, there are two doors. On buses in Ishikawa, you usually enter from the back door (the driver will open the door which he wants you to get in from). As you board the bus, there will be a small machine which dispenses tickets. Take one of the tickets and keep it until you get off the bus.

The number on the ticket refers to the fare division for the route (see below). At the front of the bus, above the windscreen, there is a chart which has numbers starting from 1. These number will correspond with the fare you pay. So when you get off the bus, if your ticket says "7", you pay the amount indicated next to number 7 on the display panel. Place the exact fare in the clear box attached to the fare box located next to the driver.

From the fare box, you can also change yen50, yen100 and yen500 coins and yen1,000 notes. Place the coin or note in the slot provided and collect the change from the outlet located half way down the machine.

WARNING: The change machine and the fare intake are not connected. Therefore you must put the exact fare into the clear box after you get your money changed. As there may be other people getting off the bus as same time as you are, it is recommended to change your money before getting off the bus so that you won't hold up other people.

Bus fares can start from as little as yen140. All bus rides within the downtown Kanazawa area, including trips from the station are yen200. Fares will increase with distance travelled. Multiple bus tickets (Kaisuken 回数) can be purchased from the bus drivers, ticket offices and cigarette shops. They are also available from some local shopping centers. You usually can buy 11 tickets for price of 10.

Bus stops are always announced by a recorded message, and lately some of them are in English. In some places, they are displayed (in Japanese) on the fare chart located at the front of the bus. To get off the bus, you press one of the "stop" buttons which are located everywhere on the bus.

The concept of putting romaji or furigana on bus stops haven't caught on yet in Ishikawa (although there are some written in Braille) so you have to memorize the Kanji names of your destination. Slowly but surely the number of buses with their destinations written in romaji are growing.

Bus schedules are displayed at bus stops. For Hokutetsu routes in Kanazawa, white schedules are for Monday to Friday buses, the blue one for Saturdays, and the yellow for Sundays and public holidays. Some bus stops in the city also indicate if a bus is on its way. Next to the number of the bus are two lights. When the left light flashes green the bus is two stops away, when the right light flashes it is one stop away. If a red light is on it usually indicates some kind of problem or delay.

For places outside of Kanazawa, the bus stops only display one set of schedules so symbols are used to indicate changes in the schedule for Saturdays, Sundays, statutory holidays and during school terms.

運行 (unko) - bus running 学期 (gakki) - school in session
運休 (unkyu) - bus not running 学期休み(gakki-yasumi) - school not in session
土曜日 (doyobi) - Saturday 夏期 (kaki) - summer season
日曜日 (nichiyobi) - Sunday 冬季 (toki) - winter season
日祝 (nichishuku) - Sundays and Holidays
eg. 日祝、学期休み運休 - No bus on Sundays, holidays & when there's no school.

For routes within Kanazawa, they are usually numbered and color coded and are often shown in the books of detailed city maps. For more detailed information, KIEF’s Hokutetsu Bus publishes a guidebook containing maps of its and its affiliates' bus routes and time schedules for yen100 per copy. They are available at most bus ticket offices.

Intraprefectural Buses

Generally, intra-prefectural express buses are cheaper and some of them are quicker than trains, and there are services to towns which are not on the train lines. However, they run less frequently than trains. The intra-prefectural express buses are more comfortable than local buses, but there is very little luggage space. These buses are boarded in the same way and passengers pay the same fare schedule as the local buses, except there is usually one door on the buses. If you live north of Hakui and Nanao, you'll probably find yourself taking buses to Kanazawa because the trains are really slow and a lot of the towns do not have a train station. Here are some of the express bus routes which connect Kanazawa and Noto Peninsula:

Wajima - Kanazawa
(Depart Wajima Station: 0555, 0640, 0810*, 0910*, 1010*, 1210*, 1340*, 1510, 1610, 1740, 1910)
(Depart Kanazawa Stn: 0735, 0935, 1110, 1235*, 1335*, 1435*,1535*, 1625*,1700*, 1800*, 1900, 2000)
trip time: 1h55min, fare \2200 one way
stops at Musashigatsuji, Korinbo, Kenchomae, Kenrokuen.

Suzu - Kanazawa
(Departs Suzu Station 0704, 0904, 1004, 1354; Arrive/Leave Anamizu 0805, 1005, 1105, 1455)
(Depart Kanazawa Stn 1015, 1615, 1720, 1820; Ar/Lv Anamizu 1146, 1746, 1851, 1951)
(via Anamizu) trip time: 2h30min, fare \2630 one way

Wakura - (Nanao) - Kanazawa
(Depart Wakura Bus Terminal: 0700, 0800, 0900, 1000; A rr/Lv Nanao Station 0715, 0815, 0915, 1015)
Wakura - (Nanao) - Kanazawa (Depart Kanazawa Station: 1115,1315, 1415, 1515, 1620; 1740 (to Nanao only))

(Kanazawa-Nanao) trip 1h10min, fare \1310 one way. ¥13260 to Wakura.
All buses stop at Kenrokuen

Interprefectural Buses

Cheap travel outside the prefecture is by bus. Inter-prefecture bus fares are often half the train fares and there are good services to major cities such as Tokyo, Nagoya and Kyoto. The inter-prefecture buses are relatively comfortable, have some space for luggage and offer free coffee. The overnight buses are very convenient for those who have no problem sleeping on buses.

All inter-prefecture buses depart from Kanazawa JR Station bus terminal (platform #2) and depending on their destination, will make stops at Kenchomae, Musashigatuji, Korinbo, Katamachi, Komatsu and Kaga.

Return fares are usually valid for 10 days. Reservations are required for all of these buses, and they can be made 30 days before the day of the trip. To make a reservation, call 076-239-0123/076-237-5115 or visit a Hokutetsu Bus Ticket Center at Kanazawa Station, Katamachi, Musashigatsuji, Tsurugi, Komatsu, Kaga, Yamanaka, Daishoji Station, Hakui Station, Wakura Bus Terminal, Takahama Bus Terminal, Wajima Station and Monzen Bus Terminal. Tickets can also be purchased at most major travel agencies throughout the country.

Local Trains

Like bus schedules, if you would like to find out the exact train schedule for your area, please contact your office or school or a renewing JET living nearby you or Japan Rail (JR) information in English tel 03-3423-0111.

Trains are convenient although not as cheap as the buses. Your JET MEMO has some information about different types of trains and how to read timetables. A timetable book updated monthly for all trains in Japan can be purchased at any bookstore or some stations.

Train tickets can be purchased at most train stations, either from a vending machine or from a ticket counter. If you board a train from an unstaffed station, simply pay the fare to the conductor on the train or at the fare adjustment counter when you get off.

When you are in a station, its train schedule is usually displayed above or near the ticket checker's booth. The platform number which a train departs from is written under the column titled noriba (のりば) or homu (ホーム). Trains departing towards one direction or destination usually utilize the same platform, but there are exceptions.

There are three train companies in Ishikawa: Japan Rail (JR) West, Noto Railway and Hokuriku Railway (Hokutetsu). JR West operates the Hokuriku Line (the major rail line which runs along the Japan Sea), and the Nanao Line (from Tsubata to Wakura Onsen), while the Noto Railway operates a line from Nanao to Suzu and Wajima. Hokutestu operates two local commuter lines (one from Kanazawa JR Station to Uchinada and the Driver's License Center and the other from No-machi near downtown Kanazawa to Tsurugi). You can travel on JR West and Noto Railway on the same ticket.

Buying Train Tickets

Please keep your tickets during the duration of the trip. At the conclusion of the trip, tickets are handed over to the station staff at the checkout, but you should keep the ticket if you want to re-board another train using the same ticket.  The cost of tickets will vary depending on your comfort requirements and the travel time. Local trains are slower, make frequent stops and usually have bench seats while Limited Express trains are faster and have reclining seats.

For Local (Futsu 普通 ) and Rapid (Kaisoku 快速) trains, you need to purchase a Regular Fare Ticket.
For Express (Kyuko 急行) and Limited Express trains (Tokkyu 特急), you need to buy two tickets: a Regular Fare Ticket and an Express Ticket for Express trains, and a Regular Fare ticket and a Limited Express Ticket for Limited Express trains.

Express and Limited Express trains usually have smoking and non-smoking cars, and reserved (Shitei-seki 指定席) and non-reserved (Jiyu-seki 自由席) seatings. For long journeys during peak travel time, it is highly recommended to reserve seats as early as possible (reservations are accepted one month ahead of time) or risk standing all the way. There is additional surcharge of \300-\700 for reserved seatings. If you are planning to sit in non-reserved seating, it is advisable to line up at the train platform as early as possible, especially during peak travel periods. If you don't have reserved seating and would like to sit in a reserved area, simply sit in a vacant seat (provided that it's not already reserved for somebody else) and pay the conductor the extra when he comes by.

Reservations for reserved seats on Express and Limited Express trains can be made through travel agent offices (JTB Travel and Hokuriku Travel are very popular and have offices all over the prefecture), or at train station ticket counters displaying a green sign with a seated stick-figure (Called midori-no-madoguchi 緑の窓口). Stations in Ishikawa with this service include Kanazawa, Nishi-Kanazawa, Higashi-Kanazawa, Morimoto, Tsubata, Matto, Komatsu, Kaga-Onsen, Daishoji, Hakui, Nanao, Wakura-Onsen and Wajima. Reservations can be made one month before the date of the trip.

Intraprefectural Trains

From Kanazawa, aside from trips to the northern tip of Noto Peninsula, you should be able to purchase tickets from a vending machine at the station. Like the buses, the chart listing the train lines and their fares don't use romaji or furigana. This means that you must know the kanji characters of your destination. On the chart, the fare to your destination should be listed below the name of the destination. Next, put the money into the vending machine (most will accept \1000 notes, some up to \10,000 notes) and buttons with different fares will light up. Press the button with the appropriate fare and the train ticket and your change (if there is going to be any) will come out from a dispenser located at the bottom of the machine.

An overnight Express train (Kitaguni) leaves Kanazawa for Komatsu (and Osaka) at 2:51am; leaves Komatsu for Kanazawa (and Niigata) at 3:30am. The last Limited Express train leaves Komatsu for Kanazawa at 0:26am.

If you're really in a hurry or don't know the fare to your destination:
You buy one of the cheaper tickets from the ticket machine, get on board, and settle the balance later at no extra cost with either the train conductor or at the fare adjustment counter/machine at your destination. By the way, if you paid too much fare, you can get the difference refunded, but there is a surcharge of \210 to \300.

Interprefectural Trains

Popular ways to get to metropolitan areas by train (all prices and trip time based on Kanazawa departure unless indicated otherwise):

Seishun 18 Kippu

GO TO TOKYO, OSAKA AND FURTHER FOR ONLY yen 2, 300...!
About three times a year, JR sells a ticket package called "Seishun Juhachi Kippu" 青春18切符 which for \11,500 you get a book of five tickets. One ticket can be used for one day of unlimited travel on all local and rapid trains (but not on expresses and limited expresses), and you can share the ticket package with others. Using this ticket you can get from Ishikawa to Tokyo; but it'll take about 12 hours.

Dates Sold Dates Valid For:
Feb 20 - Mar 31 Mar 1 - Apr 10
Jul 1 - Aug 31 Jul 20 - Sept 10
Dec 1 - Jan 10 Dec 20 - Jan 10

Tokyo 東京 (Tokyo area)

"Hoku-Hoku" Line using limited express "Hakutaka" and Joetsu Shinkansen. 4-4.5 hour trip, change to Shinkansen at Echigo-Yuzawa. \11,800 one way, non-reserved (\12,710 reserved). Round-trip with reserved seating for \23,000. Discount ticket coupons for one-way travel in either direction (to or from Kanazawa) valid for 2 to 3 months (and exchangeable at any JR station for either reserved or non-reserved seats) are available at discount shops (see "Cheap Train Tickets" section below) for \11,060.

Noto Express(能登)

There are two overnight Express trains (first one leaves Fukui at 21:07, Kanazawa at 10:11 pm, and arrives at Ueno Station at 6:05am, second one starts at Kanazawa at10:14, arrives at Ueno at 6:19) for \9240 one way, but the highway buses might be better because they keep the car lights on and make frequent stops. The Noto express is alright if you have really short legs and don’t mind being cramped in a tiny seat next to a snoring and/or smoking stranger for a real long time.

Osaka 大阪 (via Kyoto 京都)

Raicho, Super Raicho, Thunderbird(雷鳥、スーパー雷鳥、サンダバード)(Limited Express trains) 2.5-3 hour trip (2 hours to Kyoto), stops at Komatsu, \6,930 to Osaka, \6,200 to Kyoto non-reserved; \7,440 and \6,900 respectively for reserved seats.

Kitaguni(きたぐに) overnight express train which runs between Osaka to Niigata, and stops in Kanazawa and Komatsu at wee hours of the morning. Costs \5,880 one way.

West of Osaka (eg. Hiroshima and Kyushu)

Take Raicho, Super Raicho, Thunderbird, or Kaetsu, then change to Shinkansen at Maibara, Kyoto or Shin-Osaka.

Nagoya 名古屋

Shirasagi(しらさぎ)Limited Express, 2.5 hour trip, stops at Komatsu, \6,620 one way.
Kaetsu 加越)and Shinkansen combination, 2 hours, stops at Komatsu, change trains at Maibara, \7,040one way.
Q-kippu from Komatsu \11,120, Kanazawa \12,060 both good for 6 days.

Sapporo 札幌

Twilight Express - the QE II of Japan Rail. Train runs from Osaka to Sapporo via Kanazawa. Very luxurious and very expensive. Cheaper to fly or ferry.

Cheap train tickets

There is a discount ticket shop next to the bookstore on the outside of the "Live One" building across the road from IFIE. You can purchase a ticket from one of the staff inside or you can use one of the vending machines which are open 24 hours a day. Another option is Ticket Bank (tel 076-234-0009) in the basement of Porte (Nikko Hotel, near Saizeriya Restaurant) across the street from Kanazawa station. You can also buy or sell beer and book coupons, gift certificates and telephone cards at these offices. The train and plane tickets are 10% cheaper than regular tickets. Its not much, but if you are travelling to Osaka and back by train, it works out to be about 1,500 yen cheaper. The tickets are not valid during certain times of the year such as New Year, Golden Week, and O-bon.

Ferries

Even though Ishikawa is located next to the Japan Sea, the nearest domestic ferry terminal is located in Niigata and Tsuruga (in southern Fukui Prefecture). Both terminals operate scheduled ferries to Otaru (west of Sapporo in Hokkaido). The ferry to from Niigata to Otaru starts from about \8,000 one way and takes about eighteen hours. The sea can be rough during wintertime although the ferries are quite clean and equipped with large baths.

International Ferry Departure Points

Popular international ferry departure points (to Korea and China mainly) include Yokohama, Osaka, Kobe, Nagasaki, Fukuoka and Shimonoseki. There is also a service to Vladivostok from Niigata and Takaoka (Takaoka summer only).

If you are planning a holiday romp through Korea, one cheap way to get there from Ishikawa is to take the overnight bus from Kanazawa to Fukuoka, then a ferry from Shimonoseki (on the western tip of Yamaguchi Prefecture) to Pusan, and buy the return ticket back to Komatsu from Seoul at Pusan (note: full fare tickets purchased in Korea are cheaper than in Japan, but discount tickets are rarely sold in Korea ). Also, if you leave Monday and return Friday, you can get tickets for less than 20,000 yen from Komatsu or Toyama.

Finally, AJET published a book titled "JET and Beyond, Options and Decisions", which contains more information about overseas travel, including visa requirements for popular tourist destinations. All current AJET members can order a copy around next February, or if you want to read this book earlier, ask a renewer who is an AJET member.

 

International Flights

Places to Get Discount Plane Tickets

Finding discount flight tickets and tour packages for trips inside Japan are difficult to find, however for overseas trips there are several discount travel agencies in Kanazawa which makes travelling overseas more financially attractive than travelling within Japan.

Other Places to Look for Discount International Airfares

English newspapers such as The Japan Times and The Daily Yomiuri usually contain several ads for travel agencies that help non-Japanese speaking customers. Also, the publication AB Road, available at most major bookstores (in Japanese only), has listings of both tour package and airfare deals from various travel agencies throughout the country.

Noto

Noto Kokusai Travel Ground Floor, Wajima Station Hotel. 0768-22-8400. Reiko Sakajiri speaks good basic English and regularly finds better deals than those offered by some larger Kanazawa agents.

All of the offices are open on Saturdays and some on Sundays. As for prices, they are fairly similar although it helps to shop around just in case airlines might be offering special deals through one of the travel agencies. 

Other alternatives

Another alternative is to contact AVIA Travel of San Francisco who offer cheap "around the world" and "longer and more interesting ways to get back home from Japan" flight packages. They are recommended by Frommer's Guide and many JETs. If you're an AJET member, you'll probably get one of their pamphlets. Their address is:

717 Market Street, Suite 514 San Francisco, CA 94103 USA
tel (415)536-4155; fax (415)536-4158
Payment for tickets is by postal remittance in US dollars.

I've been spending hours each week on the Net, looking for good travel sites to get me cheap airline tickets, and this is what I found. Most companies base their tickets out of the country the company was established (naturally so). And it usually favors the Americans among us. In addition the sites are not user friendly and you find yourself wasting some serious time on the net (serious work time that is).

But then I found bootsnall.com powered by airtreks.com . These guys can get me from Osaka - Istanbul - New Delhi - Kathmandu - Bangkok - Christchurch for about USD2,000. The website is great to use, super simple, with fun little route indicators, showing you where your flights will take you on the globe. I recommend this site for anyone taking the long way home.

Domestic Flights

Domestic flights are available from Komatsu and Toyama Airports (I heard that there is free parking at the latter). Flying domestically is not much more expensive than taking the train if reservations are made in advance, however if you purchase your ticket on the day of the flight, it may cost almost 50% more than taking the train. Getting to and from airports can take up the time which might have been saved through flying.

From Komatsu, there are domestic flights available to Tokyo (Haneda Airport), Sapporo (Chitose), Sendai (inactive during winter), Fukuoka, Izumo, Hiroshima, Okayama, Kagoshima, and Okinawa. You can view the flight schedule (in Japanese) by clicking here.

You can get to Komatsu airport easily on an Airport express bus from either Katamachi or Kanazawa station, or from Komatsu station. For Kanazawa, the buses leave about two hours before departure and the fare is \1000 (\240 from Komatsu).

Advance purchase ticketsAlthough not as economical as several years ago when buying travel tickets in advance might have saved you up to 50% of the fare, pre-purchasing air tickets can still save you some hard-earned cash in the long run, especially if you know the dates of your trip well in advance. The number of advance-purchase tickets is of course limited and they sell out very quickly so you need to book in advance. If you cannot buy a ticket 28 days in advance, 14 day advance-purchase tickets are cheaper than regular tickets, so it is worth inquiring if there are any left. Advance-purchase tickets do of course have special conditions. You cannot change your reservation and if you cancel, you will lose most of your money. If you know the exact dates of when you will be traveling and are willing to take the risk, advance-purchase tickets are a cheap way to travel.

Airports

From Ishikawa, the popular airports for international flights are Komatsu, Toyama, Nagoya, Narita (Tokyo) and Kansai (Osaka). For departures from Narita and Kansai Airports, an airport user's fee of \2040 and \2670, respectively, is charged.

Komatsu and Toyama Airports 小松空港、富山空港

From Komatsu and Toyama Airports you can fly to Seoul (3 round trips per week from Komatsu and 4 round trips per week from Toyama). Although prices (around \25,000) tend to be more expensive than flying from Narita or Kansai Airports, you save the fare and the time traveled to Tokyo or Osaka. Since the Toyama-Seoul flights are serviced by Asiana Airlines, you can easily connect up with many Asian and North American points.

Nagoya Airport 名古屋空港

To get to Nagoya Airport, take a shuttle bus from the Meitetsu Bus Center (next to the Nagoya JR Station) which leaves every 10-15 minutes. The trip takes 45 minutes and costs \730. There is also direct bus service (reservation required, inquire at Kanazawa Station Bus Terminal) from Kanazawa Station to Nagoya Airport that leaves daily at 1:00pm for \4,800 one-way and takes 3.5-4 hours. Return bus from Kanazawa Station leaves Nagoya Airport at 6:15pm.

Narita Airport 成田空港

Narita Airport near Tokyo has become more accessible in recent times. Once you are in Tokyo there are a number of reasonable ways to get to the airport:

Japan Rail and Keisei Rail has train stops at Narita. The cheapest way to get to the airport is to take the regular Limited Express train from either Keisei Ueno Station (located east of the JR Ueno Station under Ueno Park) or from Nippori Station (where you can transfer directly between JR and Keisei lines). It takes 70-75 minutes and costs \1000, running 2-3 times per hour from either Keisei Ueno or Nippori.

Another option is the Keisei SKYLINER, a special, all-reserved express train that runs 1-2 times/hour from Keisei Ueno or Nippori to Narita Airport that takes 55 minutes and costs \1,920 (schedule is here). Tickets for the Skyliner can be purchased at major travel agencies.
A Rapid train (Airport Liner) on the JR line takes 90 minutes from Tokyo Station and costs \1260 (note: the latter train also make stops at Yokohama, Kawasaki and Chiba).

Shuttle buses leave from major hotels including the Sunshine City Prince Hotel, which is the final destination of the express bus from Kanazawa to Tokyo (Ikebukuro). Buses from Haneda Airport to the Narita Airport take about 90 minutes (usually-but watch out for rush hour traffic!) and cost \2900.

Kansai Airport 関西空港

Kansai Airport in Osaka is a popular international departure point for Ishikawa residents. If you are travelling from Ishikawa by Japan Rail, the most direct route is to take the Haruka (はるか)Limited Express trains from Kyoto and Shin Osaka stations or the Kansai Rapid (関西快速)trains from Osaka station (The Haruka costs about \2980 and the Kansai Rapid \1,160 and takes 70 minutes). Nankai Line Airport Express from Namba Station in downtown Osaka leaves every costs \890 and takes 40 minutes, with about 3 departures per hour from Namba. Shuttle buses from Osaka Station cost \1300 and take 50 minutes.

Re-entry Permit (Sai-nyukoku Kyoka 再入国許可)

A re-entry permit is required for all foreigners who travel outside Japan during the period of their visa. Without it you cannot re-enter Japan.

In Ishikawa, re-entry permits can be obtained at the Kanazawa Office of the Nagoya Immigration Bureau (tel 076-222-2450). It is located on the fifth floor of the Kanazawa Ekinishi Godo Chosha (金沢駅西合間庁舎). See map below. It takes about 20 minutes by foot or 5 minutes by bus from the Kanazawa Station.

The office is open 9 - 10:30am Monday , Wednesday and Friday and 9 - 12:00am & 1-4pm Tuesday and Thursday. Since the application process takes about 30 minutes, it is advisable to get there 30 minutes before closing time.
Re-entry permits must be obtained in person. You are required to bring your passport and Alien Registration Card. All of the forms are written in English and are easy to fill out.

map to get your re-entry permit

Bicycles

Bicycles are the cheapest method of transport (apart from walking of course). Most people acquire a "gomi bike". A gomi bike is the name given (by foreigners) to the general use bicycles that are used for going down to the shops or to work. They are very convenient although not necessarily comfortable.

If you need a bicycle like this it is a good idea to ask around your office as people often are able to lend their old bikes to JETs. If this draws a blank you may be able to locate an abandoned bicycle at a railway station, behind a police station or at a shopping center. If you decide to take one of the abandoned bicycles, it is a good idea to try to make sure that the bicycle does not belong to anyone around the area so that you are not accused of stealing. Sometimes if you ask at a station or a shopping center you will be directed to a rack of bicycles, all of which seem to have been abandoned. You will probably have to do a little maintenance but you will have wheels.

Gomi bikes seem to be regarded as public property, so once you get one, lock it up whenever you leave it somewhere, or else it may be gone by the time you return. If your bicycle is stolen, check at the local bus or train station. You have a greater chance of finding it there.

Bike Shops

Hakui 羽咋 Kato's (tel 0767-22-0539)
Kato-san's shop is located across from the delivery bays on the left side of the Joyful Shopping Center in Hakui. Kato's is a good place to look for a mountain bike. He keeps his shop fairly well stocked with riding goodies and even manages to get out and lead group rides around the Hakui area. This is the only shop on Noto Peninsula that can be recommended.

Kanazawa Area 金沢地方


Bike Route (Nonoichi tel 076-294-3380)
Also known as Sun Okamoto's, Bike Route has two locations: one in the Enkoji area and the other in Nonoichi. Okamoto-san and his assistant Miyazaki-san are both very knowledgeable and well versed in all aspects of the MTB and road bike worlds. Service is usually done for a minimal charge if the bike has been purchased from the shop. Okamoto-san can also communicate in English if you're worried that your lack of Japanese ability will prevent you from getting fixed properly. (He's also an ex- Japan pro tour ski racer if you have any questions about skiing or snowboarding in this part of the country.)

Cycle Shop Kaga (tel 076-298-3302) Thurs holiday excluding March, April.
Located across the street from Nuka Junior High School in Nuka-machi, Mori-san runs a tight and professional operation. This is also an excellent shop, but take someone with you who speaks Japanese.

Kaga's club, TONDEMO, is one of the strongest in the Hokuriku area for anyone interested in racing, training or just increasing their level of fitness in a hurry. Sunday rides twice a month during the season, plus various special rides.

Race Mode Narita
As the name implies, Narita-san's shop is geared towards competitive racing. He is a former Olympic team member and an active "Keirin" or professional track rider. His shop is a stone's throw away from the Uchinada (Hokutetsu) station towards the beach. Uchinada also has a beautiful track riding facility, and a number of pro track riders make their home in the area. Interested in road or track? Go stop by. (The track pros are a fun bunch if you get acquainted with them, but be forewarned as "politically correct" hasn't entered the lexicon of the Keirin world.)

Other Shops in Kanazawa

Shops around Kanazawa that are worth a visit are Masaunaga near Kanazawa Station, and Minami Cycle (tel 076-241-1383) next to Nishi-Kanazawa Station. Both have active riding groups for Sunday morning rides throughout the season.

Komatsu  小松

Wheelworks (tel 0761-22-0652)
If you're in the southern part of the prefecture, this is a great shop! Big bonus points go to the in-house coffee bar where you can sip some coffee and browse through a stack of catalogues. Wheelworks is also home to the "Matsubokkuri" riding club, led by the shop's owner Mr. Nakade. They are really nice group of people! Highly recommended for all you down south!

A Note on General Riding Conditions in Ishikawa (a memo from an expert)

While there are numerous horror stories about riding a bicycle in Japan, Ishikawa is blessed with kilometers of excellent lightly traveled roads. There is a handful to avoid: Route 8 between Kanazawa and Komatsu, and Route 249 between Tsubata and Kanazawa are tops on the list.  

Route 157 over the mountains from Ishikawa to Katsuyama in Fukui prefecture passes through several tunnels and is not for the faint-hearted. Fortunately, most of these are paralleled by older roads that are still in fine condition with the added bonus of much greater scenic and often historical value. If you ride enough in Ishikawa, you will sooner or later be faced with racing into the black lengths of one of the prefecture's numerous tunnels. For the uninitiated, tunnels are simply scary as hell the first handful of times through. "Is it a K-car (the matchbox-sized cars) or is it the end of the world racing up my tail?" would be a pretty fair assessment of your first trip through the depths of Ishikawa. A red flashing safety light is one of the best accessory purchases you can make for your own piece of mind. On the hottest days, tunnels are a welcome break from the oppressive summer air.

With that being said, the speed differentials between motor vehicles and bicycles in Japan are nowhere near that of North America, and Japanese insurance laws weigh exclusively in favor of the pedestrian and bicyclist, in that order. Drivers are considered guilty until found guiltier in all cases except obvious suicide on the part of the pedestrian or the rider. You may want to purchase additional cycling insurance to cover you from hitting one of Japan's ill-sited senior citizens or youngsters determined to play road kill.

Top Roads!!

Anything on the Noto Peninsula! If you're a mountain biker, there are miles of logging access roads across the prefecture! (even places fifteen minutes from downtown Kanazawa!) The Togi bike path follows an abandoned but paved over railroad track which starts from Hakui Station and passes through Shika and ends up south Togi. Gomi bikers can also make the trip with little problem but the path has posts embedded at places to prevent cars from getting on it. There is another bike path that runs along the Noto Expressway from Hakui to Kanazawa. If you do go along any of the bike paths in the area beware of snakes that like to sun themselves on the warm cement. The black ones with a triangular head are poisonous.

The Noto Peninsula provides numerous circuits for the energetic, moderately fit cyclist who enjoys a physical challenge. There are numerous circuits, starting in Suzu, crossing the Otani range (14-degree gradient at some areas, and then back in 4 hours plus, depending on the route taken. There are many isolated beaches and beautiful rocky coastlines to be seen when winding your way around the coast.

If you plan to take a longer trip to neighboring Wajima and Monzen there are also well-spaced minshuku accomodations, log cabins, auto camping grounds etc. The Suzu City Office’s Tourist Section (2nd floor) has maps in English and Japanese featuring all the onsens, places to stay, places to play, roads and points of interest in the area. There are also many roads, ideal for cycling, that are not included on the maps. However, if you need more advice on cycling routes or the festival, please call the CIR at Suzu City Office (0768-82-7821).

Cars / scooters / motorcycles / etc.

Owning and Operating a Car in Japan

Owning and operating a car in Japan can be an expensive proposition, but not as expensive as you might think. In Kanazawa, public transportation is quite good, and the car traffic situation can be bad. So, unless you live in the outlying areas owning a car isn't worth the trouble. In addition to the registration and the insurance, you have to get "Shaken" for your car or motorcycle.

Shaken 車検 (or Shakensho 車検証 -Automobile Inspection Certificate)

Shaken is an inspection of your vehicle by government employees to ensure its safety. It is a way to collect fees from the public and is a great incentive by the government for people to buy new cars at regular intervals. (You won't see many old cars on the roads in Japan!) When you buy a new car you get three years free of Shaken. After this time you must pay Shaken every two. The average Shaken fee is \100,000 but you also must pay for any work deemed necessary. For older cars most people end up paying about \150,000 (including repairs) to get their Shaken renewed.

Yellow-Plate Cars
Shakens, insurances and toll road charges are less expensive for cars with special yellow plates. These vehicles have engine displacement of less than 660cc. Although they seem flimsy built, they are ideal for getting around narrow streets and trying to find parking lots.

Motorcycles and Scooters
The fee and necessity varies with engine size.
Up to 250cc: no shaken ; 250 - 750cc: shaken every two years; over 750cc: shaken every year. It is best to get a smaller engine for shaken purposes. Motorcycle shaken is less than a car and varies with engine size - usually around \60,000.

Buying Used Cars in Japan

There are basically two ways to go about buying a used car in Japan, by yourself or through a dealer. Most Japanese and JETs go through a dealership because of the hassles involved in doing everything by yourself. The best thing to do when looking for a car is to ask your colleagues for advice. Chances are somebody in your office is quite knowledgeable about cars, or can introduce you to a reputable dealer. Make sure you are communicating well with your Japanese helper. There was a case where a JET thought she was buying a car that she could sell when she left Japan but found out after a year that she was only leasing the car.

Buying a Used Car Through a Car Dealership

The easiest and most convenient way is to go through a dealer. The price will be higher, but the automobile dealer will take care of the necessary documentation (and believe me, there's a lot), Shaken and insurance. The major drawback of going through a dealer is that almost all of the time, cars are more expensive. Dealers are not likely to stock cars over 10 years old (after this, the prices really drop). Most cars found at used car dealers are around 5 years old and will cost around \400,000 to \700,000. Cars older than this are usually considered unfit for Japanese drivers (even though they are in perfectly good condition) and are shipped off to Russia or China for resale.

However, things are changing. With the changes to the shaken laws and as the Japanese become more cost conscious, some of these dealers are selling these old cars. So keep an eye out for these cheaper cars. All dealerships will have large sticker prices on the window of the cars. To figure out the price of the car, just add 4 zeros, for example a price like "35" will mean that the car will cost \350,000. Also, unless you personally know the dealer, try to bring a Japanese friend to help you get through any "misunderstandings" that may occur. Try to consult other JETs as to which dealers are reputable. 

(Here is some advice and a few words of caution from a fellow JET about buying a car in Japan)
Buying a car in Japan is a bureaucratic nightmare! The best way to go about it is to get people to do it for you by buying through garages or agencies. The first thing you need to make sure you have are your shyako-shoumei (parking space?) and inkan-shoumei (registration for your personal seal). It may be that you need both or neither, the former being dependent on where you live (city or rural) and the latter on the price of the car (cheap or expensive). Getting these is the easy part (if you have a friendly JTE).

I bought my car on the Internet, originally wanting to get it through one of the Japanese car auctions, which are huge and held every week. Although there are definite savings to be made by buying this way, the auctions are far away and most agencies that I found were not willing to deal with the re-registration of the car (nightmare bureaucracy!!!).

I ended up buying from a car agency on the Yahoo auction and they did all the paperwork and transporting of the car, all for a tidy price of 7 man yen on top of the price of the car!!! A word of warning - they were a bunch of cowboys and I will never deal with them again ? it was a real shock to discover that not everyone in Japan is friendly and willing to help you; these people were rude and disorganised, so beware

My advice would be to try and deal with things locally, or within your prefecture ? it’s much easier and possibly cheaper in the long run. If, as in my case, you plan to export the car, and would like to get something more extravagant and adaptable to your home country (which may limit your choice) ? I would say the auction is a great place to find good deals.

Although I no longer have the details, I found all the information I needed on the Internet and by e-mailing a couple of companies. The only way to bid for a car on the auctions is through a representative company ? some only deal with one or two auctions ? some deal with all of them. Most companies cater for foreigners who want to export the car straight away ? some of them are willing to sell locally, it’s just a case of enquiring. If you do buy a car on the auction, you’ll need to get it sent up, or go and collect it yourself. After that, be prepared to drag a Japanese person around Kanazawa during an entire working day to get all the paperwork sorted out. There are a couple of sites on the Internet that can tell you what you need, but the best way is to ring up the appropriate agencies and find out in advance, especially if you don’t live close to Kanazawa or have the time to spare.

Buying a Used Car Privately

The price is almost always much cheaper this way, but the paper work can be a big hassle on your time. You can count on spending around 6 hours waiting at various offices and filling out paper work. Usually, you can find these used cars by looking at the postings at Rifare or through a Japanese friend or co-worker. The total cost for forms and registration should be under \5,000. Here's what you'll have to do to buy a car this way:

1. Find the car you want to buy, and discuss the price, shaken expiry date, and the general condition of the car with the owner.

2. Both the buyer and the seller must have a registered hanko (personal seal). If your hanko is not already registered (it usally isn't) you must obtain a Hanko Registration Certificate (inkan shomeisho 印鑑証明書) from the city hall. Make sure you have this certificate with you for all upcoming procedures. Also from the city hall you will need to get a Proof of Residence (juminsho 住民書). To get this, you will need your Hanko Registration Certificate and Alien Registration Card (ie. your gaijin card). The catch here is that it takes a couple of days to get your Hanko Registration Certificate, without which you can't get your Proof of Residence. So you’ll have to make a return visit to the city hall.

3. Buy a Letter of Attorney (i-nin-jo 委任状). You can purchase this at the Ishikawa Land Transportation Bureau (Ishikawa-ken Riku-un Shi-kyoku 石川県陸運支局, Kanazawa-shi Irie-machi 3-153 金沢市入江町 3-153, tel 076-291-0531. This form must be filled out by the car's owner to commission you to complete the procedures. Also at this place, you must purchase a Transfer Certificate (joto shomeisho 譲渡証明書) and the car's owner should fill it out.

4. The owner of the car should supply you with the Automobile Inspection Certificate (shakensho 車検書) and the compulsory Liability Insurance Certificate (jidosha songai baisho sekinin hoken shomeisho 自動車損害賠償責任保険証明書).

5. You are also required to have a Parking Certificate (shako shomeisho or jidosha hokan basho shomeisho 車庫証明書 or 自動車保管場所証明書) for you car in order to prove that you have a parking space. This form is available at your local police station. The parking form is included in the Transfer Certificate. You must also include two maps, one (drawn and photocopied on the left side of the Transfer Certificate) showing your house or apartment and the surrounding areas (you can usually find your place in one of the Kanazawa or area map books), and the other of your parking space (drawn or photocopied on the right side of the Transfer Certificate) including the dimensions of your parking space. For those of you who live in an apartment, your landlord can prepare these papers for a small fee. These papers must then be taken to your local police station. They will mail you the final certificate.

6. You will have to submit all of the above documents when applying for a change of ownership. You will also have to complete a registration application (iten toroku shinseisho移転登録申請書)purchased from the Transportation Bureau's revenue stamp shop and buy a \500 revenue stamp (In-shi 印紙) for the registration fee.

7. After the transfer of ownership is approved, you are required to apply for the payment of Automobile Tax (jidoshazei 自動車税) and automobile acquisition tax (jidosha shutokuzei 自動車取得税) at a local taxation office.

Here is a breakdown of what you have to get from...
City Hall: hanko, registration certificate, proof of residence
Transportation Bureau: letter of Attorney, transfer certificate, registration application, revenue stamp
Car owner: auto inspection certificate, auto liability insurance certificate
Police Station: parking certificate
Tax Office: application for payment of automobile tax and automobile acquisition tax

Accidents and Insurance (a word of warning)

Simply having the minimum insurance in Japan is not nearly enough. An accident can be very painful physically and financially in Japan. Be cautious of renting cars out to friends and colleagues because the most basic insurance will not cover damages caused by a person who is not registered in the insurance policy, and the responsibility for damages will be on the owner of the car.

If you do get into an accident with another vehicle, do not accept or be forced to pay money on the spot for the damages. Some Japanese may do these things especially if the damage was minor. Like at home, make sure first that the police report is filled out and estimates are done at the repair shop. If you have to negotiate a settlement with the other party, bring somebody who speaks Japanese.

It is highly recommended to get as much insurance as you can especially for the other party. You can get a full insurance policy for around \10,000 per month. A car dealer will be able to hook you up with a good insurance company, however if you purchase a car privately, past JETs have recommend contacting Mr. Suetomo, an agent for Sumimoto Insurance (tel 076-231-1600; fax 076-231-1619). He is a very nice guy but please bring along somebody who can speak Japanese.

Car Un-registration

For those who wish to un-register their automobiles, there are two main cases, temporary un-registration (Condition 16) and permanent (Condition 15).

Temporary Un-Registration (Condition 16)
In order to temporarily end the registration of your car, you need to go to the Transportation Bureau and fill out an application for un-registering your car (massho toroku hodai 16 jomassho no shinseisho 抹消登録法第16条抹消の申請書). Also, you will need a Letter of Attorney (i-nin-jo 委任状) purchased from the Transportation Bureau, the Hanko Registration Certificate that you received at city hall when registering your car (see above), the Automobile Inspection Certificate (shakensho車検書), and your license plates (both front and back). After you have filled out and turned in the appropriate documents, you will be issued a Certificate of Un-registration (massho toroku shomeisho 抹消登録証明書). This is an important document as you will need it if wish to use your car or sell it to someone in the future.

Permanent Un-registration/Car Disposal (Condition 15)
In the case that your car becomes completely inoperable and you wish to dismantle your car, you will need to go to the Transportation Bureau and fill out an application for permanently un-registering your car (massho toroku hodai 15 jo massho no shinseisho 抹消登録法第15条抹消の申請書), a Certificate of Dismantling (kaitai shomeisho 解体証明書)from a mechanic, as well as a Letter of Attorney, Hanko Registration Certificate, Automobile Inspection Certificate, and license plates (same as case of temporary un-registration). Unlike the case of temporary un-registration, you will not be issued a certificate of un-registration.

Drivers License

You need a proper motorcycle license to operate bikes with over 50cc engine displacement, however you can operate a scooter (bikes with less than 50cc engine) with a regular automobile license.

If you have an International Driver's License, it is valid for one year. After one year you must obtain a Japanese license. Some people have simply renewed the International license; however, the legality of this within Japan is a little unclear so it is better to get a Japanese License. Of course, if you wish to drive in a third country, you will need an international license.

To get a Japanese driver's license (Untenmenkyo), you have to apply for one at Ishikawa Driver's License Center (Ishikawa Unten Menkyo Center). The center is located in Kanazawa-shi Higashi Kagatsume-machi 2-1, near the start of the Noto Toll Road (see map).

You can get to the License Center by car or from Kanazawa Station by taking the Hokutetsu Train to Uchinada and taking a bus to the center. To get to the Center during office hours, take the 0739, 0806, 0830, 0855, 1100, 1510, 1610 or the 1640 train from Kanazawa Station.

Appointment: Required, can not just turn up

Conditions: You must go in person. If you cannot speak Japanese, try to take along somebody who can.

You must have stayed for a minimum of three months in the country in which your license was issued after the license was issued. For example, if you have lived in the U.S. all your life but got your license two months before coming to Japan, you are not eligible for Japanese driver’s license.

Bring:
- Passport
- Certificate of Alien Registration
- One photograph (3 x 2.4 cm. color or black and white taken within 6 months)
(You can get one taken at the Center for about \600)
- Driver's License (expiry date and date of issue should be indicated if possible)

Your driver's license must be translated into Japanese with the signature of the translator. Not just anyone can translate your license. You must get an official translation from one of two places: your consulate or the Japan Automobile Federation. The address for JAF is:

Nihon Jidousha Renmei 日本自動車連盟
920-03 Kanazawa-shi Kobu 1-56 〒920-03金沢市古府町1-56
Tel 076-249-1252
Ask for Miyamura-san

You may send a copy of your license to JAF to be translated. It costs 3700 yen. Send a copy of both sides of your foreign driver’s license along with ¥3700 in cash through the post office in a genkin kakitome futo (it is the Japanese method of sending registered mail with cash in the envelope). Take your hanko to the post office. If you would like your consulate to translate your license, please contact your consulate for instructions.

Examination: A simple traffic sign exam.
You may be required to take a driving test (a car will be provided). This depends on which country your license was issued. Inquire when you make an appointment. For drivers who come from countries which drive on the left, no practical test is required., There is also no written test either. The only thing tested is your eyesight. Expect to spend three hours waiting around. The license will then be issued on the same day and it’s all relatively painless.
Vision test (reading chart and color blindness test).

Fee: \5000- \6000 (fees for exam and for issuance of license). There may be an additional fee for car rental for the road test.
Time: The license may or may not be issued on the day that you apply.
For more information, call the Center on 076-238-5901 extension 253.

Note: Procedures and tests you have to take vary according to the country in which your licence was issued. It is best to enquire as to exactly what is expected of you before you go. 

Simple Traffic Rules and Common Road Sense

- Drive on the left side.
- The right of way is always given to pedestrians.
- It is the law to always fasten your seatbelt.
- Stop at railway crossings.
- Wear a helmet on motorcycles and scooters.
- Gas is expensive in the city but cheaper outside (for Kanazawa, try areas along Route 8 which runs parallel to the Hokuriku Expressway), sometimes as much as \15 per litre cheaper. Also if you frequent a gas station and smile a lot, they may give you a card which upon presentation will get you an additional discount anytime you go.
- Rush hour traffic occurs about 1 hour later than it does at home and lasts an extra hour.
- Ishikawa drivers are known in this region as the least courteous...don't take anything for granted, even the idea that people will always stop at red lights. It pays to be paranoid!
- Speed traps are common on small countryside roads.
- Be aware that there are video speed traps on the major highways and roads. You don't want to receive a nasty bill in the mail complete with an incriminating picture!

SPEEDING TICKETS ARE VERY EXPENSIVE HERE
Fines start at \12,000 and go up to \60,000, plus your license will be suspended for a month if police catch you doing 30Km over speed limit.

RANDOM DWI TESTS ARE VERY COMMOM AND CAN OCCUR AT ANY TIME
Some people have been pulled over at 10:00 am. Don't think that because you live in a rural area that you won't get pulled over

THE TOLERANCE IS ZERO
If you get caught driving under the influence of alcohol, there is a good chance that you will lose your license and maybe even your job.